Actually, do any Hikarin have experience with Varmilo keyboards? Seems like they do cool keyboards, but i'm interested in their leverless arcade stick so opinion on their keyboards would be appreciated

>>1172 Never bought one of those, but they seem overpriced, and their switch options are not even good.

>>1173 >and their switch options are not even good Oh, have you tried cherry mx silver on other keyboards then? Because from description they seems weeeeird

>>1172 I've only used one varmilo, the Bluetooth tkl from massdrop. Vb87? It was ok, probably not representative of current designs. The keycaps it came with were very nice front printed pbt, but the Bluetooth module eventually broke across the whole run, within about a year of each other. That turned me off the rest, especially since you can get other plastic case keyboards for way less that will be just as nice except for the included keycaps

>>1171 Topre is cool! I especially like Realforce 84u and 86u, too bad I'm unwilling to pay the prices they usually go for. >>1176 I've tried them, the best way to describe the feeling versus full-travel switches is it's a bit like stubbing your fingertips with every keystroke, I don't find typing on them very satisfying.

I am looking for a mech keyboard that's under 40 euro's... Anyone have a nice recommendation?

>>1242 Aula F75 goes on sale often, you can try finding similarly priced chink boards.

>>1242 Go to an "Action" shop and get one of their mechanical keyboards

>>1242 May be just slightly above your budget but check out the Keychron C series, I think they're the best value for money you can get.

Do you guys like vintage keyboards? I recently got this one in, an SGI Bigfoot in very decent condition. It has Alps SKCM Damped Creams, which really feel (and sound) like rubber domes to me, more so than Alps SKCM Browns, which people sometimes call mechanical Topre because of the mega-rounded tactility. I'll try removing the rubber dampers from inside the switches to see if it makes them nicer.

>>1332 Honestly I don't care. I dislike large keyboards because I have medium hands, but really I only care about the quality of switches and the pressure curve.

>>1334 I am similar, day to day I usually just use a custom TKL + a separate numpad (that doesn't get much use). I like vintage boards that offer something you don't get with modern keyboards, in particular I really love SKCM tactile Alps switches and capacitive buckling springs you get in IBM Model Fs, neither of which are made anymore (I am ignoring Ellipse's "New Model F" keyboards because they are overpriced, poorly designed and have bad QC). Something like Cherry G80s don't appeal to me all that much since you can easily build or buy a modern plateless Cherry MX board nowadays. One neat thing people do is rehouse vintage switches in modern custom keyboard chassis with the help of custom PCBs and mounting plates, or even custom-designed cases specifically made for vintage parts. Pic related is one such keyboard that's designed for Alps switches and Apple Extended Keyboard keycaps, I think stuff like this is extremely cool.

>>1336 I love my numpad though! I don't remember when I last used it though It's cool to use it to type numbers anyway. You are spelling lots of keyboard names and other things but I don't understand any of it

>>1332 i wish i had anything sgi related isn't that keyboard connector kinda fucked though? i heard that connecting a normal ps/2 keyboard to an sgi workstation kills the keyboard... i have a IBM model M myself (the kind with actual springs before they switched to membrane) and i was lucky i found someone that soldered the missing ps/2 i tried modern mechs but nothing beats old full sized kbs

>>1341 I know there's some SGI boards that use their own protocol or whatever but mine's a 9500829 that just uses PS/2, I don't actually have anything to plug it into, though... My PC motherboard doesn't have a PS/2 port sadly, I convert my vintage keyboards to USB with Pro Micros or get custom PCBs made for them. The Model M is a good board, enjoy it! I assume you meant to say rubber dome (Quiet Touch) instead of membrane because all Model Ms use a membrane for sensing, even the buckling spring ones. I own a few Model Ms myself, but I prefer my Model Fs since the springs are a bit lighter and the bottom-out is firmer. I actually "cushionless modded" one of my Ms and I think it feels much nicer, though I wouldn't recommend it for most people since it took ages and there's a possibility of breaking stuff, also changes the sound a lot which you may not like.

>>1342 oh ok so that's why they fried. personally i use a cheap ps/2 to usb converter for now because i suck ass at soldering btw a couple of years have passed since i researched into it before buying (forgot all the terminologies) but yes i was talking about later variants using rubber dome >though I wouldn't recommend it for most people since it took ages and there's a possibility of breaking stuff, also changes the sound a lot which you may not like. yeah just for the rarity of these things where i live (not US) i'm even scared to just clean it up. by the way, do you know if the springs eventually break and if there's a way to change them (how?)

>>1344 I don't live in the US either, so I know how it is, it took me a while to build up the collection I have. Those who search long and hard enough are rewarded... No, buckling springs don't go bad on their own as long as you don't mess with them, and Yes, there is a way to replace them using a toothpick or something I believe, you don't need to if they all work fine though so don't worry about it. What you *might* have to worry about is that the Model M keyboard assembly is held together using melted plastic rivets that eventually break off over time and cause the keyboard to not feel/sound good anymore or even not function properly. This can be remedied by replacing the rivets that break off with screws and washers as illustrated in pic related. Your Model M might be in good enough condition that it doesn't need it, though. Give it a gentle shake to hear if there are any small plastic parts rattling around inside, that would likely be broken-off rivets.

>>1345 thank you, saved! i'm going to look it up this summer when i have to clean it a little ヽ(・∀・)ﾉ

>>1346 Here's the hardware you need for it, M2x8 Self-Tapping Screws (Countersunk) and M2.5 or M3 Washers (6mm or 7mm Outer Diameter), you will need 60 of both to fully screw mod a fullsize Model M, but I recommend only replacing rivets that have broken off and leaving those that are still intact alone. Make sure you have a 5.5mm nut driver to actually open your Model M up, as well. Screw mod isn't to be confused with bolt mod, which is an older mod that accomplishes the same thing, but is more intensive and finicky.